Walking into Skylight Clarkson Square, the venue space felt raw, strikingly different than the tents of Lincoln Center. As a venue, it has transformable potential with the ability to adapt to a variety of events. Dull grey carpeting as we entered didn’t exactly convey a glamorous feel, but The Gallery space itself was well presented. Idan Cohen's presentation followed the trend of a more modern runway experience, with the models parading down the main runway, then looping back down the two “side” runways. Paired with upbeat music, and long beachy waves, Idan's gowns moved fluidly down the runway in pastel tones inspired by the sand and sea. Standout pieces include the gorgeous finale gown, and sparkly rompers layered with satin overcoats.
It’s safe to say Betsey Johnson is a woman who is not afraid of color. This year marked her 50th anniversary as a designer, and what better way to celebrate than throwing a party on the stage at NYFW. Carefully curated, and cleverly titled The Curious Case of Betsey Johnson, the collection was tailored to reflect Betsey's 50 years in the industry, separated by the signature look of each decade, playfully taking us on a trip down memory lane.
Starting with Limelight, we saw dresses from every little girl's ideal dress-up closet - brightly colored, glitzy tutus, flouncy skirts and colored fishnets. Next, Palladium featured bold prints, layered corsets, jumpsuits, colorful socks and elbow length printed gloves.
Bringing us into the punk rock attitude of the 80s, we get interrupted with Mud Club and edgy looks, plaid, pinstripe suits, and a black vinyl dresses. Naturally progressing followed Electric Circus, or the hippy inspired 70’s, featuring eclectic knitwear, some even doubling as pajamas. If I had to self title these looks, I would say “Granny Chic", including one of my favorite pieces, a long knit dress with matching nightcap.
All photos WWD
While many over the top looks were not ready to wear for everyday women, Max’s Kansas City, was ready to be worn off the runway. The 60’s collection featured simplistic mod dresses and Twiggy inspired looks, complete with the era's signature beehive. Betsey ended her journey with a collection titled Ann K. Pimm, a tribute to her childhood dance instructor. 50’s inspired leotards, pin up costumes, and dance attire was the perfect finale. Her narration throughout the show tied the presentation together, and she closed with her signature cartwheel and split.
Despite a flurry of coordinators herding photographers into place and black clad interns showing guests to their seats, a thirty minute delay forced guests to occupy themselves until the models took to the runway. Though Karigam started slow, it was well worth the wait, finishing with a flourish. Designer Karina Gamez showcased an elegant collection, perfect for the strong, sophisticated, metropolitan woman. Luxurious overcoats, dresses with zipper and sheer details, high collared shirts, tailored and structured workwear, evoked a crisp yet futuristic image. Her palette was limited largely to black and white, with a touch of pink or beige. MUST have one of her flowing hooded trench coats for spring.