Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2015: HONOR, Mongol, Mark & Estel

HONOR

The Fall 2015 collection from HONOR by designer Giovanna Randall evoked the 1960s, from the Moody Blues 1967 hit "Nights in White Satin" to thick headbands and bishop sleeves. The mod-femme vibe was mixed with a psychedelic wood with Willy Wonka style mushrooms sprouting from an enormous tree trunk that served as runway entrance and the design house's logo.  

Each piece was paired with brightly colored opaque tights in reds, purples, blues and greens and low, chunky-heeled sandals. The hair was styled into a flip reminiscent of Mary Tyler Moore and pulled back with a thick headband. The makeup was dewy and dream-like, giving the models a youthful glow.

The designer worked with materials like organza, corded lace and devoré velvet. The show featured trumpeted gowns with empire waists in frost blues taffetas, black mikados and white satin organza, wide-legged trousers in orchid (last year's PMS color of the year), and silk blouse with scalloping in tomato (read: vibrant red). Though simple in appearance, almost every piece included some kind of embellishment. Romance and nostalgia are the two words that come to mind when I think this particular label, and they held fast to that theme.

                                                       

*All photos from fashionising.com

Mongol
Newcomer to New York Fashion Week, Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu brought us a taste of Mongolia’s rich culture with her brand MONGOL. The opening performance juxtaposing a traditional, instrumental, Mongolian musician side by side with a hip hop artist, set the tone of her collection. Bayarkhuu fuses classic Mongolian garments with urban street style. Many of her pieces involve the transformation of deel, the customary tunic or kaftan symbolizing prosperity and longevity, with modern silhouettes of shoulder cut outs , bell sleeves, and capes, in vivid gem tones.

      

      

      

Conventional materials such as lamb fur, cashmere, and silk are integrated alongside experimental plastic and leather. While the collection successfully harmonizes tradition and modernity, there are moments where that balance is lost, as when it's masked behind 90's neon pinks and turquoise. But all is redeemed with the styling -  chic center parted braids and beaded headbands, which adds beautiful cohesion. 

      

All photos from MBFashionWeek

MARK AND ESTEL

The band and brand duo have done it again. On Friday, February 13th, they rocked the Studio at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents with high-low gowns, a-line cocktail dresses and ultra chic capes. 

They stuck to their signature rocker-chic look using a variety of plaids (some transparent for that extra bit of edge), furthered their legging fame with an equestrian-style pair, and took inspiration from the '70s with the oh-so-fabulous cranberry red silk-satin jumpsuit. Shoulder pads were in full force for a few of the pieces, most notably a skin-tight transparent number with a deep v-neck.

In true Mark and Estel fashion the pair ended their show with a musical performance, complete with guitar solos, funky dance moves, and the repeated proclamation that "[we] are fashion rock stars!" 

Mark and Estel, you are fashion rock stars.


All photos from Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2015: Iijin, Malan Breton

iiJin

This collection by Cassian Lau and Christina Minasian hit the head of the nail with its Fall/Winter 2015 show. Overall, the theme evoked the grunge rock/punk style of the '90s through red plaid, leather jackets, gray flannel, bomber jackets, combat boots, sneakers with femme dresses and, my personal favorite of the moment, dark merlot stained lips. The show also had a young feel to it, showcasing letterman jackets with asymmetrical materials and goofy patches of cartoon pandas and smiley faces.

With clothing for men, as well as women, iiJin designed a three-piece flannel suit for men. The pants are tapered and slightly short to give it a more edgy look and paired with sneakers. In the same vein a model walked in a navy tweed skirt with a hounds-tooth waist and matching jacket with white piping on the lapels, and a soft pink crew neck shirt. Also paired with sneakers, this time with a wedge.

I had two favorites from the show, the first was a tan knee-length vest with matching cropped pants in suede, a light black crew neck sweatshirt underneath and black patent sneakers. So wearable, so comfortable, so cool.

My second favorite was this oh-so-gorgeous multi-color sequin material, pictured below. iiJin made a few pieces out of this, including cropped sweatpants with a slightly dropped crotch and an over-the-knee pencil skirt. Pretty much anything made in this was fabulous, but if I had to choose it would be the first dress with slightly belled long sleeves and a deep v-neck. Perfecto!

 *All photos from mbfashionweek.com

Malan Breton
The show opened with a bang when Frankie Grande walked astronaut-like onto the runway in a shiny scooter helmet, removed it slowly (for effect) and then strutted buoyantly towards the photographers in a shiny raspberry suit with a metallic cummerbund. The crowd went wild, building up the energy for the rest of the show.

Inspiration seemed to be drawn from the swing era's zoot suits with wide ties, over-sized double breasted jackets and wide leg pants. There was even a wide brim fedora a la Tex Avery wolf. In contrast the materials were quite ornate, reminiscent of the Rococo era, but in some cases the colors were more flashy.

The women's pieces followed the same style, but were in more subdued whites, blacks, champagnes and lilacs.

While this seemed to be the cohesive theme, there we are few outliers, such as a man sporting tighty-whities with a large M on the elastic band and long gray sweater, and his counterpart wearing boxer briefs (with the same M) and white dress shirt with a gray print.

The biggest outlier of all was the final piece that came with it's own theatrics: an orange gown fit for a medieval princess accompanied by a fleet of men in equally orange suits. The dress has a long train, empire waist, and spiked gold crown outfitted with an orange tulle veil.