Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2016: Fashion Hong Kong and Francesca Libertore

Fashion Hong Kong

This showcase featured three collections from Hong Kong: Loom by Loop, Harrison Wong, and Hidy N.G. Often I dread a collective show, as they tend to be long and packed full of designers, but this one was hyper-edited for an emphatic, strong statement about Hong Kong design talent. And I loved it.

Loom by Loop

I can't say Loom by Loop had me at hello. The psychedelic print mix and the sack-like, floor length dresses initially threw me back to the '80s and Naf Naf baggy cuts. But by the end of the collection I was a diehard convert. There was a dreamlike quality to the shapeless forms paired with asymmetric jackets, farfalle butterfly prints, dramatic headpieces with long single earring, and models with colored brows. The luxurious silk was not the only reason to covet these pieces; the collection was a perfect balance of print, shape, and color that made me feel a great affinity for the strong, admirable women walking down the runway. Yes, I wanted to be them in all their psychedelic sack-like glory. Also see: every damn pair of those leggings.

      

      

      

      

Harrison Wong
This men's collection was strong on style, with mod meets nerd meets British tailoring, and it worked in spades. There was a cross-generational blend to Wong's style, and a bold use of color. Note the cropped cobalt jacket, a simple combination yet brash in form and hue that created a striking look. The cropped pants worked well, as did the perfect flare to his 70s inspired pants. Not sure how he managed to not make a viewer feel all over the map with this collection, but it emphatically left a strong impression.

      

      

      

      

 Hidy N.G.
Adored this designer's modern take on classic feminine dressing that had a strong hint of  Hollywood glamour. Think more Grace Kelly meets Katherine Hepburn Hollywood than Marilyn Monroe meets Lana Turner. As with Loom by Loop, the opening looks initially underwhelmed with a series of all-black scenes, but soon noticed were the modern, elegant touches in sleeves, shoulders, and waists. Then came dresses in velvet and sparkling gold, bright white with a bustle (you have to see this in motion), and more gold, including fabulous yet restrained lame harem pants and sparkling tunic. A fine end to an impressive trio of Hong Kong talent.

      

      

      

      

 All Fashion Hong Kong photos from nyfw.com.

Francesca Liberatore

Francesca Liberatore’s Fall/Winter Collection got us excited that there's still a few more weeks of winter left. Her collection featured outwear that was stylish yet functional and guaranteed to keep us warm. The ready-to-wear pieces largely consisted of classically chic sheer nude and black tops, long dresses, and asymmetrical cuts. Highlights included printed leather leggings paired with a highly covetable and cozy looking winter jacket.  

      

      

      

      

All photos from New York Fashion Week. 

Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2016: Zang Toi, Leanne Marshall, and Michelle Helene

Zang Toi 

With the November 2015 Paris attacks strong in mind, Zang Toi’s Fall collection paid tribute to France, a country near and dear to his heart. Inspired by the French Alps, and the resilience of the French people, Toi aimed to showcase strength, elegance, and beauty. The start of the show was rather tame but classic, with less theatrics than we are used to, with safe layered monochrome knits, tailored trenches and suits, sweater /cardigan combos, and of course luxurious coats and furs. Personally, I loved the cat eared beanies. Cue Part 2, when the mood changes and you just can’t turn your head away, captivated by his evening gowns. Scarlet gowns, capes, fishtails, a standout ombre grey and black tulle number, fur stoles, and extravagant embroidery and beading, all of which remind you of why he has such a devoted following.

      

      

      

      

      

All photos from Rodin Banica/WWD. 

Michelle Helene

Today, in a society where fashion fashion is taking over the way we consume, our wants are many and plentiful, and waste is excessive and abundant, what we need is designers like Michelle Helene. Designers that have a passion and talent for creating beautiful clothing, while also having a sense of ethical and social responsibility. While Michelle is a newer name to New York Fashion Week, with just a 2 year old brand, her collection has a level of sophistication, with the right balance of structure and texture, and details that make each piece unique but classic. Easy to wear and practical, and a step in the right direction, with materials sourced from fair trade, and ethical working conditions.

      

Leanne Marshall 

Besides perhaps one of the most awkward finales and designer bows I've seen at NYFW (I blame the three lanes of Clarkson Square that seem to inspire an excess of exits), Marshall's show of glimmering gowns was an ethereal success. Her light dove grey gowns, especially the sheer lace ones and those paired with light bronze insets of fabric, were particularly stunning standouts. The combat boots paired with gowns and the more convoluted finale piece of tiered ruffles (part of which was left behind on the runway during the bow) felt more piled-on than dramatic, and the many, many black gowns could have used an edit. But on the whole I would look to Marshall for a floating, glowing gown cut nicely down the bodice for the perfect evening piece with just enough romance to make a girl feel like a carefree, fairy princess.

   

   

  

    

  

All photos from nyfw.com.