Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2016: Skingraft, Francesca Liberatore, Son Jung Wan

Skingraft

Inspired by “nomadic wandering through the Mojave Desert,” the Skingraft collection designed by Jonny Cota evoked a sense of strong, self-reliance. The garments were displayed on 12 models, standing statuesquely in two rows on a dark stage at the side of the showroom. The looks were utilitarian, with pockets, pouches, and parachute drawcords, all adding to a sort-of warrior aesthetic. However, the clothes were not overwhelmed by these extravagant embellishments; rather the collection as a whole was tied together through this mix of function and fashion.

      

      

All photos from NYFW

Francesca Liberatore 

Usually, orange is the number one color I avoid in my wardrobe, and if I dared to be wearing the hue, I certainly wouldn’t pair it with black to avoid that Halloween look. So how does Francesca Liberatore get it so right? Whether it’s her choice of fabrics or print, she manages to strike the perfect balance to make it work. Her Spring / Summer 16 collection is full of stunning silk chiffon dresses, with sheer, embroidered, and printed details of the heart. To down play the femininity, models walked down the runway barefoot, with slightly mussed hair, covered with silver paint strokes. I also enjoyed her more tailored menswear inspired vests and coats.

      

      

      

      

All photos from Masato Onoda/WWD

Son Jung Wan

It’s been a privilege watching Son Jung Wan develop as a designer over the past few seasons for Fashion Week. Her collection showed that she has really figured out her brand and her target audience – and who better to represent her classically elegant style than front row supporter Kelly Rutherford. Inspired by Jeju Island in Korea, Wan aimed to translate its scenic beauty into her clothes, from the turquoise color of sea, or pastel pinks and lilac of florals. I love the structure of her clothing; she achieves angles and shapes different than any other designer through interesting cuts and truly understanding movement.

      

      

      

      

All photos from NYFW

Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2016: KYE

KYE

Korean designer Kathleen Kye brought her A-game this season with a collection full of color, movement, and dynamic cuts. Drawing slightly from K-Pop trends, the collection is young and vibrant, employing bright blues, pinks, and golds in geometric prints. What I found most striking about the collection, was the way Kye employed sequins in more standard street-style looks. The last look of the collection, a gold sequined, slightly distressed, floor-length skirt, paired with an subtle black sweatshirt and black beanie. This look exemplified Kye’s attempt to elevate typical streetwear looks like sweatshirts, bomber jackets, and joggers, to another level.

      

      

      

All photos from Todd Matarazzo/WWD

Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2015: LIE SANGBONG, Zang Toi

The LIE SANGBONG Fall/Winter 2015 collection showcased a seemingly endless line of beautiful coats and separates. From leather to fur to shearling, the collection’s textures kept on coming as the show progressed. The mix of fabrics, along with Lie’s use of detachable and reversible collars, made each piece stand out. With their large floral prints inspired by depictions of peonies and understated yet striking deep color tones, the coats are perfect mix of elegant and alternative. The silhouettes seem simple at first glance, with defined wastes and clean lines, but once they moved down the runway you can see the layered pleats and seams that echo the large florals on some of the pieces. 

  

  

   

All photos from Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for LIE SANGBONG on MBFashionWeek.

Zang Toi
Damn if Zang Toi didn't send Fortuny pleated evening gowns down the runway to opera music and give me chills. This season was a stroke of brilliance for the Malyasian-born designer who has a devoted and adoring fan base and a reputation for technical chops and elegant designs. His clothes leave no one in doubt that Zang Toi knows and adores his clientele right back.

  

    

First the designer sent a group of classic separates down the runway, perfect in cut and form: beautiful sweater sets, impeccable leather skirts, and gorgeous pantsuits in shades of taupe and black. Lovely, but no chills yet. I was just beginning to think "ho-hum" when the lights dimmed and the opera music soared. Soon came the Fortuny pleats, inspired by the theme of his show "Mystique Beauty of Venice." Yes, the opera cape was show-stopping magnificent with its hand-beaded nightscape of Venice, but the beauty of Zang Toi's pleated gowns, and the perfect simplicity of the taupe and black palette (and that absolutely stunning empire waist gown) was what left the most lasting impression on me.

  

  

  

  

  

                                       All photos from Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Zang Toi on MBFashionWeek.

 Bravo, Zang Toi.