Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2015: Art Hearts Fashion, Tokyo Runway Meets New York

Art Hearts Fashion
The final hurrah of this year’s Fashion Week was Arts Hearts Fashion, a group mega-show presented by AIDS Healthcare Foundation featuring seven designers and more than a few theatrical moments. While most solo fashion shows are like a 10-minute taste that leave you wanting more, we were treated to an entire seven-course meal that lasted well over an hour. Here’s a rundown of each designer and their collections:

Mister Triple X: First to present was Mister Triple X whose line was dominated by bold street-wear with ornate metallic patterns. As was true for most of the night, the line was worn by many celebrity models including Top Model JimmyQ. During the final walk, models drew cheers from the crowd as they all donned Triple X’s iconic black-leather bunny masks.

  

 Photos by Jeffrey Grossman

Walter Mendez: A collection of elegant gowns featuring swirling cut-out patterns and a variety of luxurious materials. The color palette began with pure white, transitioning to soft greys, and then ended with dark blues and bold velvety greens.

Photo by Jeffrey Grossman

House of LiJon: There were many high points throughout the 90-minute show, but my favorite was House of LiJon’s line of couture wearable armor. Sleek and well-fitted, made with thousands of small chains, the outfits were inventive, stylish and sensual.

  

 Photos by Jack Fleming

House of Byfield: This Dutch designer showed contemporary sheer dresses for women and dapper multi-material suits and bags for men.

Photo by Jeffrey Grossman

Hallie Sara: A collection of classic feminine silhouettes with a distinctly vintage feel, featuring full skirts and beautiful fur coats, capes, and muffs.

Photo by Jeffrey Grossman

Mimi Tran: A collection of glamorous, body-hugging cocktail dresses and gowns featuring daring cut-outs and plenty of sparkle.

Photo by Jeffrey Grossman

MT Costello: The most memorable moments, however, happened near the show’s end. While MT Costello featured mostly women’s looks, their sole male model walked the runway with only a golden fur cape draped over his shoulders and nothing more than his hand to cover his bejeweled manhood. The show’s final surprise was even stranger: another of Costello’s models wore a large prosthetic human mask, which was pulled off to reveal reptilian face makeup.

  

Tokyo Runway Meets New York

Seven unique Japanese designers gathered together for a fashion scene well worth the last day of New York Fashion Week. These collections gave the audience a peek into the Tokyo fashion market, one of the few that rivals New York. The runway promoted Tokyo’s creative taste for fashion while highlighting how the two cities' fashion worlds intersect. From the elegant dresses to the faux fur jackets, the show did not disappoint. Also, I loved the hair inspired by street punk styles with sharp bangs and bobs.

Below are key words about the seven collections:

Fig & Viper: Tokyo Street Style, Faux Fur and Gold Mini Shorts, Fashion Has No Age 

    

Aula: Contemporary, Fur, Detailed Long Skirts, Wool  

    

Han Ahn Soon: Feminine, Layers, Modern

    

Riccimie New York: Elegant, Geometric Shapes, Handbags 

    

Dress Camp: Elaborate prints, Black Organza Dress, Visor Sunglasses, Visually Stimulating

Double Standard Clothing: Classic, Fabrics, Coats

    

Mastermind feat A-Girl's: Street Preppy, Loud

    

 Photos By Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 

From the Archives: The Queen of Staccato

Today our 34th Street archivist Anne Kumer shares some history of the 34th Street district. This post also appears on NYC Circa.

Luisa Tetrazzini, also known as the Queen of Staccato, was a coloratura soprano, famous for her vocal range and flexibility. She achieved the kind of international fame that only seems available to pop stars today, and performed regularly in Europe and the United States from the 1890s into the 1920s. The Library of Congress has several recordings of her here.

Luisa Tetrazzini, c. February 16, 1911. Image: LOC

In 1908 Tetrazzini signed a five-year contract with Oscar Hammerstein to sing at The Metropolitan Opera House in New York City. Just a few years into this contract, they had a dispute over money and venues. He wanted her to sing in New York; she loved, missed, and was eager to return to San Francisco. Her response was truly Bay Area: she took to the streets, and on Christmas Eve, 1910, gave a free concert at the corner of Market and Kearney, near Lotta's Fountain. The city and its citizens, still recovering from the damage caused by the 1906 earthquake, were grateful, and showed their support in numbers.

Tetrazzini's SF street show, Christmas Eve, 1910. Image via

Back in New York, Tetrazzini performed at the  Hippodrome on Sixth Avenue between 43rd and 44th Streets numerous times throughout her career and was one of the most popular performers in the city.

Ticket line for a Tetrazzini concert at the Hippodrome, 1919. Image: LOC

She also lived in the Hotel McAlpin (now Herald Towers).

Broadway, looking south with the Hotel McAlpin on the right, 1921. Image: MCNY

On December 3, 1920 Tetrazzini gave a recital via "radio telephone" from her room at the McAlpin. Arranged by Army Signal Corps, it was the first attempt to provide long distance entertainment to troops deployed overseas and aboard naval ships. Her voice was heard by hundreds on ships in port and at sea within 400 miles of New York City. As a thank you, Private Fred Bennett of Fort Wood, Staten Island, stationed aboard one of the ships, sang "A Tumble Down Shack in Athlone" back over the airwaves to Tetrazzini. 

On Christmas Day of that same year, she gave another meaningful performance at the McAlpin, this time as Mrs. Santa Claus to the hotel's visiting and permanent resident children.

In addition to being a famed musician, she was the namesake for the dish Chicken Tetrazzini. There are varying accounts as to the origin of the recipe, but all can agree that it was named after and inspired by Tetrazzini. James Beard attributes the recipe to chef Ernest Aborgast at The Plaza Hotel in San Francisco; I'm tempted to believe him just because of my undying love for this book.

Louis Paquet, chef de cuisine of the Hotel McAlpin won four prizes in the 1920 Hotel Men's Exposition at the Grand Central Palace. Around this time, Tetrazzini also gave him her recipe for  Spaghetti Tetrazzini, a dish that remained on the McAlpin menu for several years.

Enrique Caruso, Luisa Tetrazzini, two men, Nipper the dog, 1914. Image: LOC

Here is Luisa singing along with a recording of Caruso. It's the only surviving film footage of her, and twas taken upon her retirement in 1932. At 62, and following a prolific performing career, her voice is still as strong as ever, and her laugh at the end is delightful.

Irresistible Eats: Lobstercraft on 33rd Street

Lobster roll aficionados may already be familiar with Connecticut-based Lobstercraft, but for those of us who have never dined at their popular food truck or Darien location, it's a new Midtown delight (the NYC shop opened just before the holidays in One Penn Plaza).

And by delight, I mean a buttery, lobster-filled, fresh-baked-roll delight. 

Above is The Coastal ($17), aka Lobster Roll Perfection. I ordered this as I wanted to start with the basics, but next time I'm going for this:

The LBLT ($18). Take The Coastal and add fresh bacon from a local farm, romaine lettuce, tomatoes, and a topping of garlic aioli. This is a house favorite, and I can't wait to try it.

Other items on the menu include mac-n-cheese, lobster bisque, lobster salad, shrimp salad roll, lobster tacos, and more. There's even a kids menu with hot dog, mac-n-cheese, and quesadilla options, and wine and beer for adults. Big bonus for locals? If you work in One Penn Plaza, show Lobstercraft your work ID and get a free side of soup with any roll.

The atmosphere is quaint, casual, and appropriately seaside rustic with chalkboards, lots of wood beams, and lights hanging from nautical ropes. Dine-in space is somewhat limited, but hopefully come spring/summer Lobstercraft will be able to utilize their abundant patio space for dining alfresco.

Now I've got to run down to One Penn Plaza, because it's impossible to write about Lobstercraft lobster rolls and edit Lobstercraft photos without desperately needing a lobster roll, RIGHT NOW. It's worth the visit, trust me. See you there for dinner?


Lobstercraft
One Penn Plaza, entrance on 33rd Street between Seventh and Eighth Avenues

Open Mon-Fri 11am-8pm

212-465-0700

Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2015: HONOR, Mongol, Mark & Estel

HONOR

The Fall 2015 collection from HONOR by designer Giovanna Randall evoked the 1960s, from the Moody Blues 1967 hit "Nights in White Satin" to thick headbands and bishop sleeves. The mod-femme vibe was mixed with a psychedelic wood with Willy Wonka style mushrooms sprouting from an enormous tree trunk that served as runway entrance and the design house's logo.  

Each piece was paired with brightly colored opaque tights in reds, purples, blues and greens and low, chunky-heeled sandals. The hair was styled into a flip reminiscent of Mary Tyler Moore and pulled back with a thick headband. The makeup was dewy and dream-like, giving the models a youthful glow.

The designer worked with materials like organza, corded lace and devoré velvet. The show featured trumpeted gowns with empire waists in frost blues taffetas, black mikados and white satin organza, wide-legged trousers in orchid (last year's PMS color of the year), and silk blouse with scalloping in tomato (read: vibrant red). Though simple in appearance, almost every piece included some kind of embellishment. Romance and nostalgia are the two words that come to mind when I think this particular label, and they held fast to that theme.

                                                       

*All photos from fashionising.com

Mongol
Newcomer to New York Fashion Week, Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu brought us a taste of Mongolia’s rich culture with her brand MONGOL. The opening performance juxtaposing a traditional, instrumental, Mongolian musician side by side with a hip hop artist, set the tone of her collection. Bayarkhuu fuses classic Mongolian garments with urban street style. Many of her pieces involve the transformation of deel, the customary tunic or kaftan symbolizing prosperity and longevity, with modern silhouettes of shoulder cut outs , bell sleeves, and capes, in vivid gem tones.

      

      

      

Conventional materials such as lamb fur, cashmere, and silk are integrated alongside experimental plastic and leather. While the collection successfully harmonizes tradition and modernity, there are moments where that balance is lost, as when it's masked behind 90's neon pinks and turquoise. But all is redeemed with the styling -  chic center parted braids and beaded headbands, which adds beautiful cohesion. 

      

All photos from MBFashionWeek

MARK AND ESTEL

The band and brand duo have done it again. On Friday, February 13th, they rocked the Studio at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tents with high-low gowns, a-line cocktail dresses and ultra chic capes. 

They stuck to their signature rocker-chic look using a variety of plaids (some transparent for that extra bit of edge), furthered their legging fame with an equestrian-style pair, and took inspiration from the '70s with the oh-so-fabulous cranberry red silk-satin jumpsuit. Shoulder pads were in full force for a few of the pieces, most notably a skin-tight transparent number with a deep v-neck.

In true Mark and Estel fashion the pair ended their show with a musical performance, complete with guitar solos, funky dance moves, and the repeated proclamation that "[we] are fashion rock stars!" 

Mark and Estel, you are fashion rock stars.


All photos from Mercedes Benz Fashion Week