Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2016: Desigual, Marcel Ostertag, and HANLEY


Always one of the liveliest shows of the season, Desigual reliably brightens the often somber fashion week runway with vibrant colors and contrasting patterns. For fall, the Spanish retailer's design team playfully juxtaposed elements from Western and Eastern cultures, mixing the traditional with extravagance. Inspired by cities, where a variety of people and cultures come together, this collection aimed to reflect individual expression and the rhythm of the metropolitan landscape. Textures and patterns are layered, from standard plaids, to pinstripes, floral turtlenecks, intricate brocades, knits, and patchworks, while perfectly cinched at the waist. There was a subtle nod to the 60's and 70's, with long sleeved turtlenecks paired with mini skirts and booties, and hair is tucked into newsboy caps and berets. Desigual newsflash: Looks like trends of bright faux-fur coats and leather backpacks won’t be going away anytime soon.




All photos courtesy of Desigual. Photo Credit: Getty Images 

Marcel Ostertag

If you are digging the winter neutrals featured all over the NYFW runways this season, you'll appreciate German designer Marcel Ostertag, who populated the beginning of his almost 20 minute show (a lifetime for fashion week) with ethereal sky blues, gorgeous in skirts, coats, and menswear inspired pants. As the show progressed blacks and deep reds appeared, with prints standing out in the reds. While his easy dresses, layered looks, and long silhouettes bowled me over, I could have done without the skater dresses and girlish cuts. But the long? Stunning caftans with formal cuffs were show stoppers, in materials that floated yet didn't swim. Long flowing skirts paired with sweaters, and a stunning final piece, a long, deep-red dress shimmering in a leaf-like print and black piping, were complete successes. It must be mentioned that Osetertag's see-through plastic skirts and dresses, scattered throughout the show, were done so well that not once did I think Barbarella. Quite a feat for such an audacious material. However, the show could have benefited from some tighter editing. While the designer seems capable of magic with many fabrics and looks, the collection began to drag on, causing one worry about making the next show, and wishing for a more honed theme. But Ostertag is clearly a talent to watch, and buy.










After the long show at Ostertag, a girl barely had time to hit the loo and run next door before the Hanley presentation ended. It will be interesting to see where Nicole Hanley goes next, as last time we saw her was her 70s Cuban-inspired collection. This season was Madrid. I preferred Cuba. While her collection is relate-able and sell-able, I wasn't as charmed by this seasons tweeds, mantilla-inspired scarves, and Spanish-inspired prints. I did, however, adore all the velvet, especially the gorgeous maxi (below left). Also, the designer herself wore a perfect combination of lace and kick: her tiny skirt and lace adorned arms, along with her modest demeanor and smile, made for perhaps the most covetable look of the evening. More Nicole Hanley, please!

All of this, please.