Thursday, February 18, 2016

Fashion Week Fall / Winter 2016: Xuly Bët and Dan Liu

Xuly Bët

Newcomer to New York Fashion Week Xuly Bët presented a collection with largely exaggerated layered silhouettes, where baggy over-sized hoodies and jackets were paired with form fitting body suits and leggings. Most of the collection contained bold and vibrant pops of colors, playing along a theme of opposites in which lively colors were balanced with muted ones. We continue to see trends of faux fur, metallics, and knee high boots. Overall the collection expressed an oft-seen theme on the runway these days: the urban, street style feel.

      

      

      

      
All photos from Xuly Bët. 

Dan Liu

Dan Liu’s first NYFW show was set at The Space at Clarkson Square, a liberal amount of room for a debut show which led to awkward staging with three runways creating confusing zig-zag movements that had the models themselves checking to make sure they were on the right path. Outside of spatial considerations, the show had a playful flow with Liu, at times, taking the liberty of running two models in tandem with complementary outfits. Pulling inspiration from his Chinese and Japanese heritage, the designer paired onyx, ivory and nude base tones with colors pulled from traditional Japanese seasonal layering palettes. Rather than as overlay, Liu threw them into direct contrast in checkered, striped, or print stylings, making use of a standardized navy, pastel pink, burgundy, and an almost muted matcha green throughout multiple looks. Liu showcased a romantic flair through the use of heavy ornamentation in bows, floral jacquards, beads and lace and in subtle trim and pleats. All looks were very practical and workable and as a winter collection, took great advantage of the opportunity to showcase intricate coats and jackets.

      

      

      

      

All photos from Dan Liu for NYFW

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