Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2016: Nicholas K, Rebecca Vallance

Nicholas K 

Always the best way to kick off my fashion week, Nicholas K's layers, hoods, great pants, fabulous long dresses, and standout accessories are their norm. Bonus is the empowering aesthetic that projects a woman's confidence without compromising feminine beauty. For Spring 2016 Nicholas K accomplished this with show-opening whites, a mellow burnished orange, a striking light blue, and basic greys and blacks. The gold cuff that covered almost the entire forearm and was often shown with an accompanying hand piece, felt medieval and futuristic at once. I was struck this season also by the delicate fabrics, sheer layering, and seamless drapery that, together with the cuffs, evoked a naturalistic and earthy strength. 

  

  

  

  

All photos from nyfw.com

Rebecca Vallance

I went right from Nicholas K's layered chic to Rebecca Vallance's sophisticated party girls, and not a bigger juxtaposition could be found. Immediately upon entering the presentation space I thought: perfect party clothes. However, the pantsuits and tailored dresses also make for impeccable day and work gear. Interview standards, luncheon looks, important meeting dresses, and the perfect day-into-evening looks can all be found from this up-and-coming Australian designer. Highlights included a cherry red pantsuit and stunning burgundy leather dresses.

The scene at Rebecca Vallance. Photo from nyfw.com.

  

Fashion Week Day Two, Part I: Rebecca Vallance, Carmen Marc Valvo, Nautica

Rebecca Vallance 

Upon first walking into the presentation space for Australian designer Rebecca Vallance's collection, one's vision is immediately honed onto her winter white pieces, specifically those with her eye catching gold embroidery. Titled "Lady's Man," Vallance focused on incorporating menswear shapes while maintaining her signature feminine and sophisticated quality. Boxy sweaters offset by full skirts best exemplify this androgynous feel. Apart from her structural pieces, sheer pieces made of lace and mesh experimented with textures and aimed to update the sheer trend. But personally, I fell in love with the navy brocade crop top and pencil skirt.

      

      

      

All photos from WWD

Carmen Marc Valvo 

Carmen Marc Valvo created an armor-effect by artfully integrating geometric stitching, metallic mosaic patterns, and brocade fabric on his garments. Chainmail and loose beading ran vertically down the body, revealing hints of skin beneath otherwise battlefield-inspired looks. Loved, loved, loved the cinched pony-tails and choppy bangs, just as I loved, loved, loved the runway music. Pat Benatar remixed with what I am fairly certain was a song from the Lord of the Rings soundtrack is epic in my book.

All photos from WWD

Black Sail by Nautica 

How do these guys make winter look so effortless and tolerable? It always surprises me how designer Chris Cox is able to maintain athletic performance without sacrificing aesthetics in his Nautica Black Sail line. Layers of bright knit sweaters, puffy vests, bomber jackets, and fur trimmed parkas make dressing for the cold look lightweight and cozy. Digitally printed jackets with images of the tundra were a visually refreshing break from the traditional solid neutrals of winter. I loved the play on textures of the intentionally crinkled ski jackets or the shiny carbon wax coated coats.

      

      

      

      

All photos from WWD