Friday, September 18, 2015

Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2016: Skingraft, Francesca Liberatore, Son Jung Wan

Skingraft

Inspired by “nomadic wandering through the Mojave Desert,” the Skingraft collection designed by Jonny Cota evoked a sense of strong, self-reliance. The garments were displayed on 12 models, standing statuesquely in two rows on a dark stage at the side of the showroom. The looks were utilitarian, with pockets, pouches, and parachute drawcords, all adding to a sort-of warrior aesthetic. However, the clothes were not overwhelmed by these extravagant embellishments; rather the collection as a whole was tied together through this mix of function and fashion.


      

      
All photos from NYFW

Francesca Liberatore 

Usually, orange is the number one color I avoid in my wardrobe, and if I dared to be wearing the hue, I certainly wouldn’t pair it with black to avoid that Halloween look. So how does Francesca Liberatore get it so right? Whether it’s her choice of fabrics or print, she manages to strike the perfect balance to make it work. Her Spring / Summer 16 collection is full of stunning silk chiffon dresses, with sheer, embroidered, and printed details of the heart. To down play the femininity, models walked down the runway barefoot, with slightly mussed hair, covered with silver paint strokes. I also enjoyed her more tailored menswear inspired vests and coats.


Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016      Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016

Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016      Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016

Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016      Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016

Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016      Francesca Liberatore RTW Spring 2016
All photos from Masato Onoda/WWD
Son Jung Wan


It’s been a privilege watching Son Jung Wan develop as a designer over the past few seasons for Fashion Week. Her collection showed that she has really figured out her brand and her target audience – and who better to represent her classically elegant style than front row supporter Kelly Rutherford. Inspired by Jeju Island in Korea, Wan aimed to translate its scenic beauty into her clothes, from the turquoise color of sea, or pastel pinks and lilac of florals. I love the structure of her clothing; she achieves angles and shapes different than any other designer through interesting cuts and truly understanding movement.

      

      

      

      
All photos from NYFW

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