Fashion Week Day Five, Part I: Mathieu Mirano, Noon by Noor, and Alon Livne

Mathieu Mirano

Expectations are high for Mathieu Mirano, who always presents a beautifully edited and tailored collection. His fall show opened strong with a black asymmetrical leather coat that was both powerful and sexy. Body-conscious dresses with a "diamond cut" bodice and motorcycle jackets with fur sleeves were definite crowd pleasers, while this season's ubiquitous fur stole continued to reign as THE accessory of the season on the Mirano runway. It is impossible to drag one's eyes away from the luxurious quality of Mathieu Mirano fur coats. Pairing fur and sequins seem to be a recurring trend for Fall 2014, and Mirano's collection was no exception. Standout looks also included a blinding silver sequined pencil skirt with matching cropped jacket that was simply refreshing, and a floor length navy fringe dress. 

      

      

      

      

All photos from WWD

Noon by Noor 

The design duo continues to knock it out of the very chic metaphorical park with stunning separates and flawless tailoring, but their fall collection took me a bit by surprise. Expecting their usual plethora of rich and warm colors and fabrics, we also got a mix of dreamy colors, embellished trim, and sheer layers on shirts and dresses. Boxy coats hanging over shoulders and deep wines and blues kept this collection grounded for winter, but the warm pastel dresses, blouses, and pants were rooted dreamily in the clouds. Indeed, the designing cousins looked to nature for inspiration, seeking colors and patterns from minerals and crystals and their cloud formations and crystalline structures. Not an unusual source of inspiration, but one unusually well-balanced with winter looks for beautiful results.

      

      

      

       

All photos from WWD.com

Alon Livné

The designer's collection (his third New York show) stood out in the darkness at the Hudson Hotel, with bright lights and camera flashes reflecting off the striking, embellished garments and Swarovski crystal headpieces. The models' natural makeup and pulled-back hair emphasized the headpieces and dramatic necklines, while the gowns' beading and tasseled sleeves spoke to an imperial, 1920's elegance. The designs sometimes veered too close into costume-design territory, but Livné still presented a memorable collection. Certainly his crystal hood, cloaking the model's face, was a stunning and unforgettable piece.

      

      

All photos from MBFashionWeek

Mathieu Mirano Spring 2014

The designer talking with guests at his SS '14 presentation

Mathieu Mirano, at 22, has got some major fashion designer skills. His workmanship is always a joy to see up close and personal at his presentations in Lincoln Center. The aesthetic is controlled and minimal in silhouette, while the creativity and sex appeal gets worked out in the details.

Loved this set-up. Very tension-inducing, as the crowd was funneled into a point in front of the stage entrance, like "Look! Now turn around and use those elbows to get the hell out."

 Time for a few official photos from WWD.com.

The dark beauties. I love the addition of the vest on the left, as I tired a bit of the bustier/bra-top silhouette on its own.

 Clearly the divas of the collection.

 Shiny neutral and shiny dark. Adored the moody one on the right, of course.

Simple, sexy perfection, and cut like a dream. Clearly, Mathieu Mirano is a big luxury up-and-comer in the fashion world.

Mathieu Mirano Fall 2013

Craig discovers Mathieu Mirano at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.

How do I gush about a collection without seeming like I'm just paying lip service to the designer? This post will be an exercise in exactly that.

I had to actively remind myself to take photos when I wasn't gawking

Full disclosure: I had no idea who Mathieu Mirano was before this presentation. There's something exciting about going into a presentation blind. You have no pre-conceived prejudices or expectations. Fortunately, I was floored the minute I entered the room.

Mirano played it relatively safe when it came to silhouette but the devil was in the details. This was not a collection for PETA members as almost every piece featured fur. For the most part, the fur detail was executed perfectly. The only misstep with the fur (and with the collection in general) was a sheer maxi skirt with a panel of black fox fur running down the side. 

I still don't understand this. 

For me, the absolute highlight was a nude gown embroidered with neoprene cubes. In text, it sounds positively moronic but I couldn't stop staring at it.

Days later and I'm still thinking about this gown.

How can you not love that? I feel pretentious using the word "juxtaposition" but the juxtaposition of such a classic silhouette with the use of such a quirky detail like neoprene cubes is just the perfect representation of Mirano Fall 2013.

Overall, this collection was an A+ for me.

Mathieu Mirano Fall 2012

Nancy is wooed by the Mathieu Mirano's fall collection.

It seems the year of the dragon on the lunar calendar greatly influenced Mathieu Miarano's Fall 2012 Collection. As I entered his presentation, with three enormous dragon heads looming over the models and oriental music playing in the background, I was immersed in the Asian theme of the designer's fall line. 

 

     

The atmosphere may have been obviously Eastern, but the Asian influence upon the designs was more subtle and intriguing. I loved his use of texture in the above two dresses, whose patterns resembled the scales of a dragon or a fish. Mirano uses a traditional fabric, silk, in gold and red tones, but the style remains contemporary. 

   

     

I simply adored each and every one of these blazers and coats. The double layering with leather trim is incredibly tailored, and they create a perfect silhouette paired with knee length skirts.

 

My favorite detail was this huge silver cuff adorned with a sculpted dragon head, it is definitely a statement accessory. I would love to own this piece, as well as the dragon head ring. 

All photos from mbfashionweek.com