The design duo continues to knock it out of the very chic metaphorical park with stunning separates and flawless tailoring, but their fall collection took me a bit by surprise. Expecting their usual plethora of rich and warm colors and fabrics, we also got a mix of dreamy colors, embellished trim, and sheer layers on shirts and dresses. Boxy coats hanging over shoulders and deep wines and blues kept this collection grounded for winter, but the warm pastel dresses, blouses, and pants were rooted dreamily in the clouds. Indeed, the designing cousins looked to nature for inspiration, seeking colors and patterns from minerals and crystals and their cloud formations and crystalline structures. Not an unusual source of inspiration, but one unusually well-balanced with winter looks for beautiful results.
The designer's collection (his third New York show) stood out in the darkness at the Hudson Hotel, with bright lights and camera flashes reflecting off the striking, embellished garments and Swarovski crystal headpieces. The models' natural makeup and pulled-back hair emphasized the headpieces and dramatic necklines, while the gowns' beading and tasseled sleeves spoke to an imperial, 1920's elegance. The designs sometimes veered too close into costume-design territory, but Livné still presented a memorable collection. Certainly his crystal hood, cloaking the model's face, was a stunning and unforgettable piece.