Fashion Week Day One, Part I: Nicholas K, BCBG, Jay Godfrey

Nicholas K

 All photos from WWD

This is always a favorite show of mine, although the design duo can sometimes be predictable (urban nomad, layers with scarves and big hoodies), this morning's show was something special. Nicholas K took their usual aesthetic and pushed it to the limit: it was more punk rock, more goth, more drama, and less layered hippie. Which for us = much more honed and fabulous Nicholas K. The design team's inspiration was nautical, as seen with the rubber boots worn throughout and in some of the cable knit fisherman sweaters. But this was tough nautical; think more On the Waterfront than America's Cup. The extreme midriff-baring was seductive, the choppy, angry short black hair was aggressive, and the clothing sat perfectly in-between: urban sexy, rough-and-tumble hotness for the streets, but always chic. Bravo, Nicholas K.

BCBG Max Azria

      

      

      
All photos from WWD

Max and Lubov Azria celebrated the 25^th Anniversary of their BCBGMAXAZRIA line with a collection we wish we could have worn off the runway. Long layers, oversized coats, and caftan dresses were perfectly in tune with the Polar Vortex outside, maintaining a casual elegance and balancing it with warmth and practicality. Winter grey and neutral tones were balanced with stripes of bright color. Fur and leather accented everything, from the expected – coats, chunky sweaters and collars, to the unexpected – beaded tulle skirts. Masculine silhouettes were balanced with asymmetrical slits and cut-out dresses.  Highlights included cozy fur mufflers, capes (I’m obsessed with capes and ponchos), and a gorgeous burn out patterned dress.


Jay Godfrey

 

All photos from WWD

Godfrey brought a modern edge to 70's rock 'n' roll by combining black leather and lace; deep burgundy, indigo, and black; and glam sequins. My attention was torn between the totally-wearable leather fringe skirt and the man-I-wish-I-had-an-event-to-wear-this-to sequin and mesh gown. Hair was styled with soft waves which was a nice pairing with some of the more structured leather pieces and dark smokey-eyes. The presentation's palette reinforced my impression that wine and black will dominate Fall/Winter 2014 collections, and luckily they are two shades I can never get enough of in my closet.