Sunday, October 6, 2013

Emerson Spring 2014

Jackie Fraser-Swan is a designer that has come a long way from her first presentation at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Spring 2012. However, as a developing designer, sometimes I find that she incorporates too many elements in a collection. I want to quote Coco Chanel's "Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and remove one accessory," only in this case, remove one trend. 


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Solid purple contributed to the success of some of Fraser-Swan's strongest looks. I loved the top look, the Katy, with ivy-patterned, lazer-cut leather balancing a full chiffon skirt dappled with ivy leaves. As a leather jacket, detailed sheer dress, or cocktail dress, this ivy pattern was stunning. The headpieces were not so striking.

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For much of the rest of the line, it was difficult to not view Emerson as a junior collection, not surprising considering her inspiration of a garden party crashed by punk rock kids. From her choice of patterns to the cuts, the styling, and choice of models, it had a very youthful feel. The neon shoes also said "punk rock kid," but struck me as awkward in the collection as a whole.

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The designer focused on custom design prints, and when delivered right, revealed her great potential. Fraser-Swan's Garden Gate pattern brought a pop of neon floral to spring. Hand-painted zebra and houndstooth prints with fine tailoring could and did make a rocking jumpsuit. Her favorite flower, Allium, made a whimsical fun graphic pattern, but didn't need to be echoed in a large headpiece.

Overall, there are many bright points in the Emerson collection, and when fine-tuned in seasons to come, will prove Jackie Fraser Swan can absolutely get it right.

All photos from The Cut